辐射镜头列表
Radioactive Lenses
Why use thorium in lenses?
Simply, thorium allowed the lens manufacturer to produce high quality lenses at a reduced price. its optical properties of high refractivity and low dispersion allowed lens designers to minimize chromatic aberration and utilize lenses of lower curvature. Lanthanum was also used. Lanthanum has very weak radioactive properties, if any.
简单地说，钍使镜头制造商能够以较低的价格生产高质量的镜头。其高折射率和低色散的光学特性使镜头设计者能够最大限度地减少色差并利用低曲率的镜头。也使用了镧。镧具有非常弱的放射性（如果有的话）。
Is it dangerous?
Generally NO. Estimated exposure when these lenses were in primary use was .7 mrem per year for the average photographer and 2 mrem per year for busy professionals. Normal background radiation exposure for people has been estimated at 620 mrem per year by the NRC. However, if you are concerned about the use of these lenses; don't use them.
NOTE: Thorium doped telescope eyepieces contain high levels of thorium (25%) and will cause damage to the cornea.
一般没有。当这些镜头主要使用时，对于普通摄影师来说，估计曝光量为每年 0.7 mrem，而对于忙碌的专业人士来说，估计曝光量为每年 2 mrem。NRC 估计人们的正常背景辐射暴露量为每年 620 毫雷姆。但是，如果您担心这些镜片的使用；不要使用它们。
注意：掺杂钍的望远镜目镜含有高含量的钍 (25%)，会对角膜造成损害。
Lenses That May Contain Thorium or Lanthanum
- Kodak Ektar 101mm f/4.5 (Miniature Crown Graphic camera) lens mfg. 1946
- Kodak Ektar 38mm f/2.8 (Kodak Instamatic 814 camera) lens mfg 1968-1970
- Kodak Ektanar 50mm f/2.8 (Kodak Signet 80 camera) lens mfg. 1958-1962 (3 examples)
- Kodak Ektanar 90mm f/4 (Kodak Signet 80 camera) lens mfg. 1958-1962
- Kodak Ektanar, 44mm f/2.8 (Kodak Signet 30, Kodak Signet 50, Kodak Automatic 35/Motormatic 35 cameras) lenses mfg. 1959-1969
- Kodak Ektanon 50mm f/3.9 (Kodak Bantam RF camera) lens mfg. 1954-1957
- Kodak Ektanon 46mm f/3.5 (Kodak Signet 40 camera) lens mfg. 1956-1959
- Kodak Anastar 44mm f/3.5 (Kodak Pony IV camera)
- Kodak Color Printing Ektar 96mm f/4.5 lens mfg. 1963
- WEP Auto Weiton 35mm f2
- Argus Cintagon 50mm f/2.8
- Agfa Color Solinar 2.8/50
- Bell & Howell Director Series (Model 1208?) XL Super 8 movie camera; Zoom Lens f: 1.2 \ F: 9-22.5 mm
- Canon FL 50/1.4 (very early version)
- Canon FL 50/1.8 I
- Canon FL 58/1.2
- Canon FD 17mm f/4
- Canon FD 35mm f/2.0 (versions from the early 1970's - concave front element)
- Canon FD 55mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical
- Canon (SUPER-CANOMATIC LENS) R 50mm 1:1.8
- Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 55mm f1.4
- Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f1.8 "Zebra" (1964-67, up to serial number 8552600)
- Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f2.8 "Zebra" "(Only P6 mount version )
- Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 50mm f4 "Zebra" "(Only P6 mount version )
- Carl Zeiss Jena Prakticar 50mm f1.4 (1st version with engravings around the outer side of barrel)
- Carl Zeiss Tessar 80mm f/2.8 (old silver Hasselblad version)
- Enna München Lithagon 1:3.5 35mm (M42)
- Focal 35mm f/2.8
- Fujica Fujinon 19mm f/3.5 EBC (Arkku at mflenses.com)
- Fujica Fujinon 35mm f/1.9 EBC (Arkku at mflenses.com)
- Fujica Fujinon 50mm f/1.4 non-EBC early style
- Fujica Fujinon 50mm f/1.4 EBC early style
- Fujica Fujinon 100mm f/2.8 EBC
- Fujica Fujinon 400mm f/4.5 EBC
- Fujica Fujinon 600mm f/5.6 EBC
- GAF Anscomatic 38mm f/2.8
- Kodak Aero-Ektars
- Kodak Ektanon 4-inch Projection Lens f/3.5
- Kodak Instamatic M24/26 Super 8 Camera YouTube
- Kodak Ektar 80mm f/2.8 (for Hasselblad 1600F and 1000F, made 1948-1950)
- Kodak Ektar 135mm f/3.5 (for Hasselblad 1600F and 1000F, made 1949)
- Konica Hexanon AR 50mm f1.4 (smallest aperture 16; green AE marking)
- Konica Hexanon 57mm f1.2
- Konica Hexanon 21mm f4
- Leica 50mm f/2 Collapsible Summicron
- Leitz Wetzlar Summicron 5cm f2 (M39)
- Mamiya/Sekor 55mm f/1.4 (m42, chrome+black, flat rear element)
- Mamiya/Sekor SX 55mm f/1.8
- Minolta MC W. Rokkor-SI 1:2.5 28mm (early variants)
- Minolta MC Rokkor-PG 1:1.2 58mm
- Minolta MC Rokkor 1:1.7 85mm (the earliest variant of the MC line)
- Mitakon (Zhongyi) 50mm f0.95 Ver I Speedmaster
- Mitakon (Zhongyi) 50mm f0.95 Ver II Dark Knight
- Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 (early variant)
- Olympus Zuiko MC Macro 20mm f/3.5
- Olympus Zuiko Auto-S 1:1,2/55 mm (first version)
- Olympus Zuiko Auto-S 1:1,4/50 mm "Silvernose"
- Olympus Zuiko Pen F 1:1.8/38mm
- Olympus Zuiko Pen F 1:1.4/40mm
- Rikenon AUTO 55mm f/1.4
- Schneider Repro-Claron
- Schneider 135mm f/3.5 Xenotar
- SMC Pentax 50mm f/1.4
- SMC Takumar 20mm f/4.5
- SMC Takumar 35mm f/2.0
- Super Takumar 35mm f/2.0
- SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4
- Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (the latest version with 7 elements - red 'infrared mark' being on the left side of DoF scale '4')
- SMC Macro Takumar 50mm f/4.0
- Super Takumar 55mm f/1.8
- Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 55mm f/1.8
- SMC Takumar 55mm f/1.8 (select lenses)
- Super Takumar 55mm f/2.0
- SMC Takumar 55mm f/2.0
- SMC Takumar 85mm f/1.8
- Super Takumar 6x7 105mm f2.4
- Steinheil Auto-Quinon 55mm f/1.9 KE mount
- Tele-Takumar 6.3 300mm
- Topcor RE GN 50/1.4
- Topcon UV Topcor 50mm f/2
- Yashinon-DX 28mm f/2.8 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DS 50mm f/1.4 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DS 50mm f/1.7 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DX 50mm f/1.4 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DX 50mm f/1.8 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DS-M 50mm f/1.4 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DS-M 50mm f/1.7 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-DS-M 55mm f/1.2 (Yashica)
- Yashinon-ML 50mm f/1.7 (Yashica)
- Yashinon 55mm f1.2 (Tomioka)
- Ultragon 115mm f/5.5
- Vivitar Series 1 28mm f1.9
- Voigtlander 50mm Nokton Prominent
- Voigtlander 15cm Apo-Lanthar
- Voigtlander 21cm Apo-Lanthar
- Voigtlander 30cm Apo-Lanthar
- Voigtlander Zoomar 36-82mm f2.8
- Wollensak Raptar 28-75mm f2.3
- Zenitar-M 50mm f1.7
My lens turned yellow!
If thorium doped lenses are stored for prolonged periods of time they will yellow. Regular exposure to sunlight prevents this yellowing.
If the yellowing is severe it may have an affect on the color balance of your photos.
You can de-yellow your lens. The simplest way is to leave the lens in sunlight until it clears up. This could take weeks though. A faster way is to place a UV light bulb directly over the lens. It should clear up in a few days. If you are using an incandescent bulb, be aware that it will create heat and should be placed a minimum of 6 inches from your lens. LED bulbs can be placed very close to the lens. The addition of aluminum foil, placed under the lens as a reflector may help speed up the process.
如果钍掺杂镜片长时间存放，它们会变黄。经常暴露在阳光下可以防止这种变黄。
如果泛黄严重，可能会影响照片的色彩平衡。
你可以让你的镜头去黄。最简单的方法是将镜片放在阳光下，直到它变清为止。不过，这可能需要数周时间。更快的方法是将紫外线灯泡直接放在镜头上方。它应该在几天内清除。如果您使用的是白炽灯泡，请注意它会产生热量，并且应放置在距镜头至少 6 英寸的位置。LED 灯泡可以放置在非常靠近镜头的位置。在镜头下方添加铝箔作为反射器可能有助于加快这一过程。
Radioactive Lens Measurements
Purpose
There is a lot of talk on the interweb of radioactive lenses, several youtube videos showing highlighting the fact etc. Since I have a small collection of M42 glass and when I found a cheap Geiger counter I decided to go for it. Note that I don't believe that these lenses are dangerous in any way. Measurements are made 5 cm from the lens, with caps of. Even the plastic cap or doubling of the distance will make significantly lower results. The advice would be not to sleep with the rear element of a radioactive lens 5 cm or less from your eye? Anyway, to the fun part!
放射性镜片的互联网上有很多讨论，一些 youtube 视频显示突出了这一事实等。因为我有少量 M42 玻璃，当我找到一个便宜的盖革计数器时，我决定去买它。请注意，我不相信这些镜头有任何危险。测量距离镜头 5 厘米，带盖。即使是塑料盖或距离加倍也会显着降低结果。建议不要在距眼睛 5 厘米或更短的地方使用放射性镜片的后部元件睡觉？无论如何，到有趣的部分！
Method
I have used a simple instrument for measuring radioactivity that is connected to a smartphone or tablet via the headphone jack. The model is called SMART LAB FSG-001 SMART GEIGER COUNTER and specifications of the sensor are measurement of Gamma X-ray radiation with a measurement error of +/- 15 percent. Added to this is interference from the headphone jack, and that would be different in various devices, so comparison should be made with the same device. My setup was the same during all these tests, and also the device was set to “airplane mode” to not allowing any wireless signals to interfere. Between the device was also a 50 cm extension cord to allow more free movement of the sensor. Not to block any lens elements all lenses was tested with the aperture wide open both for front and back measurements. All test where at least tested for 30 minutes to provide some accuracy and being able to compare between the lenses.
我使用了一个简单的仪器来测量放射性，它通过耳机插孔连接到智能手机或平板电脑。该型号称为 SMART LAB FSG-001 SMART GEIGER COUNTER，传感器的规格是伽马 X 射线辐射测量，测量误差为 +/- 15%。除此之外，还有来自耳机插孔的干扰，不同设备的干扰会有所不同，因此应与同一设备进行比较。在所有这些测试中，我的设置都是相同的，并且设备被设置为“飞行模式”以不允许任何无线信号干扰。设备之间还有一条 50 厘米的延长线，以允许传感器更自由地移动。为了不阻挡任何镜头元件，所有镜头都在光圈全开的情况下进行了正面和背面测量测试。
Results
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 20mm F4.5 (Rear: 0,81 CPM, Front: 0,28 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 24mm F4.5 (Rear: 0,19 CPM, Front: 0,27 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 28mm F3.5 (Rear: 0,26 CPM, Front: 0,25 CPM)
- Super-Takumar 35mm F2 (Rear: 6,71 CPM, Front: 0,23 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 35mm F3.5 (Rear: 0,11 CPM, Front: 0,33 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 50mm F1.4 (Rear: 19,73 CPM, Front: 1,52 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated MACRO TAKUMAR 50mm F4 (Rear: 0,36 CPM, Front: 0,10 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 55mm F1.8 (Rear: 13,24 CPM, Front: 0,62 CPM)
- Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8 (Rear: 0,25 CPM, Front: 0,12 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 135mm F2.5 (Rear: 0,19 CPM, Front: 0,26 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 135mm F3.5 (Rear: 0,22 CPM, Front: 0,18 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 200mm F4 (Rear: 0,12 CPM, Front: 0,34 CPM)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 300mm F4 (Rear: 0,16 CPM, Front: 0,24 CPM)
All CPM (Count Per Minute) values larger than one are highlighted yellow. I don't believe that the SMART LAB FSG-001 is an accurate tool for measuring specific values, but since I tested all values for at least 30 min they should be comparable within the results presented here, to say what lenses are more radioactive than other, and in what rough magnitude. What I consider to be radioactive lenses based on these measurements are marked with bold letters. If I get a hold of more old lenses I will add them to the chart! To complete this post why not show a portrait with one of the radioactive lenses
所有大于 1 的 CPM（每分钟计数）值都以粗体突出显示。我不相信 SMART LAB FSG-001 是用于测量特定值的准确工具，但由于我测试了所有值至少 30 分钟，因此它们应该在此处提供的结果中具有可比性，也就是说哪些镜片比哪个镜片更具放射性其他，以及在多大程度上。根据这些测量结果，我认为是放射性镜片的东西用粗体字母标记。如果我能拿到更多的旧镜头，我会把它们添加到图表中！